Part One traces how a household cloth became a legally protected global name; Part Two will explore Harris Tweed today.

Part One: pre- 20th century

Harris Tweed is one of the world’s most recognisable textiles and a few things truly set it apart. It’s a sturdy, water-resistant wool cloth made in the Outer Hebrides. Certified by the Orb mark label, it’s the only fabric protected by an Act of Parliament (since 1993). Every length of genuine Harris Tweed is made from pure new wool, dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides, then handwoven by island weavers at home on their own looms before being finished and inspected at local mills. From a domestic cloth built to withstand horizontal rain and Atlantic gales to a global name embraced by designers, shoe brands and lovers of vintage, Harris Tweed’s story is rooted in place, process and protection.

Production of Harris Tweed will endure as long as there are weavers in the Outer Hebrides (Lewis, Harris, the Uists and Barra). From traditional jackets to make-your-own-bag workshops, this versatile textile has carried its character through generations and just keeps renewing its image. Plenty of fabrics are sold as “heritage” in marketing; Harris Tweed is heritage in practice.

What is Harris Tweed?

Known as Clo Mhor in Scottish Gaelic (meaning Big Cloth), Harris Tweed comes in three weights. The lightest is typically used for clothing. The medium weight is most popular and used for jackets, trousers and outerwear. The heaviest weight is used for soft furnishings and bags. The cloth is warm in winter, cool in summer, biodegradable and manufactured with energy efficiency and sustainability in mind.

Long before it was a label, the cloth that became Harris Tweed was simply a practical domestic twill. Woven from local wool and made close to the land, it clothed families, shielded them from harsh weather and any surplus was traded.

The right side of the weave is always more unevenly textured making it ideal for resisting stains and dirt - perfect for outdoor wear and upholstery. Perhaps the most common twill today is denim. Herringbone is a typical Harris Tweed pattern, named after the structure of the fishbones and created with basic weaving arithmetic, with warp and weft crossing in repeated sequences to form the now familiar diagonal pattern.

So how did a local household cloth become a globally protected name? Let’s time travel.

Where does the Harris Tweed story begin?

Under Norse rule since the 9th century, Harris becomes part of Scotland in 1266.

Cloth was domestically-produced from the wool of the native island sheep, handmade to clothe and protect families from the elements. The wool was prepared, spun and woven on small, wooden, treadle-powered looms. It was a slow and laborious process for the weaver. The surplus cloth was traded and became a form of currency amongst islanders.

The shorn wool from the sheep is washed in the soft, peaty island water and hand-coloured using local natural dyes from plants and vegetables. These softly-hued dyes create beautifully coloured wool that can then be spun into subtle blends. The blended wool is then woven on the hand loom in the chosen twill pattern, creating a distinct local cloth.

By the end of the 18th century the cloth is trading to mainland Scotland along with other locally-produced goods such as animal hides. “Tweel” was the Scots word for twill. According to a widely told story, an order marked “tweel” was misread by a London merchant as “tweed,” and the misreading stuck.

19th century Harris Tweed: a name travels, then a market appears

By the 19th century, North Harris is owned by the 6th Earl of Dunmore, inherited from his father in 1836. When the Earl dies in 1845, his wife Lady Catherine Herbert, takes over responsibility for the estate until her son is old enough to inherit it.

In 1849 she sets up an embroidery school and takes an interest in local weavers. During difficult economic times for the islanders, she commissions high-quality cloth for dressing her estate workers. She also sees the potential for the fabric to be used to make quality sportswear for her friends and acquaintances.

Cloth from the North Harris estate grows in popularity with aristocratic sporty types, and demand follows. It soon becomes a fashionable, quality choice for hunting and sportswear among the aristocracy and the Victorian royals and so becomes referred to as Harris Tweed. Lady Catherine ensures that Harris Tweed gets the royal seal of approval needed to boost its success with the aristocracy.

Commercial production of Harris Tweed helps to develop a sustainable local industry using hand-weaving by the Earl’s tenants (the local North Harris islanders). Its success leads to the manufacture of greater quantities, while trying to maintain the high quality, handwoven image of the cloth.

Lady Catherine aims to improve general standards of production and weaving so the cloth can become a highly desirable fabric to be sold across the UK. The Harris Tweed jacket of the typical English gent is born from the fashionable popularity of this traditional fabric. Similar twill-cloth weavers from across the Outer Hebrides join the commercial production of Harris Tweed.

In 1868, the 7th Earl of Dunsmore goes bankrupt whilst building Amhuinnsuidhe Castle. The Harris estate is then taken over by bankers.

With popularity came imitation. By the end of the 19th Century, cheaper versions of the Harris Tweed are being manufactured due to its popularity. These cheaper and lower-quality versions of the wool are spun and woven on mechanised looms and borrow the Harris Tweed name and reputation.

20th century Harris Tweed timeline: trademark, modern looms and mass popularity

As tweed became more of a fixture of British outdoor wear, Harris Tweed crossed worlds: from country wardrobes to women’s tailoring, interiors, youth subcultures and designer collections. It also endured the usual pressures of industrial competition and changing fashion cycles, with periodic revivals reminding designers and wearers that texture and craft can outlast trends.

Let’s look at the timeline:

In the early 1900s, weavers moved from older wooden looms to more efficient domestic looms, and formal steps were taken to protect authenticity. The beart mhòr handloom is now in use to produce Harris tweeds from around the turn of the 20th century.

1909: The Harris Tweed Association is formed to help protect the quality of the name.

1910: The Orb Trademark is introduced. It helps keep Harris Tweed authentic and distinguishes itself from any imitations. Every item made from genuine Harris Tweed bears the label with the Orb Trademark.

1919: Lord Leverhulme buys all of Harris including the estate and castle for £20,000. A Hattersley single-width domestic loom is introduced in 1919.

Introduced after World War 1, the Hattersley helps disabled ex-servicemen earn a living through weaving. Its rate of production is superior to the wooden hand looms of the past and it is capable of weaving more complex patterns.

1934: an alteration in the trademark definition allows the use of mill-spun local yarn in addition to hand-spun. This further increases the rate of commercial production.

Tweed becomes popular work and outdoor wear for many men and is used for women’s clothing as utility fashion embraces hardwearing and durable fabrics. This fashion continues, especially for women, into the 1950s and 60s and Harris Tweed is no exception. It is used for the interiors of the QE2 ocean liner.

1966: 7.6 million yards is produced in a single year.

It is also popular in the Mod fashion of the 1960s UK and the trend for natural fabrics in the 1970s is a reaction to the dominance of cheap man-made fibres.

In the 1980s there is a decline in sales until Vivienne Westwood’s celebrated 1987 Harris Tweed collection reinvents the classic textile for a new generation. The fashion designer has long been a supporter of heritage textiles.

The 1990s introduce the Bonas-Griffiths loom to the Outer Hebrides, a modern double-width rapier handloom. This produces a wider, lighter length of cloth.

1993: An Act of Parliament legally protects the Orb certification trademark as a standard of authenticity and ensures that the cloth is made from pure new wool, dyed, spun and finished in the Outer Hebrides, handwoven on a treadle loom by islanders in their homes. The Harris Tweed Authority is set up as a statutory regulatory body to replace the original voluntary Harris Tweed Association.

Cheap, mass-manufactured fabrics later flood the market and Harris Tweed faces the familiar pressures of fashion cycles and industrial competition. But a renewed interest in craftsmanship and the legal protection helps Harris Tweed endure into the 21st century.

In Part Two we’ll meet Harris Tweed today, learn how to spot the genuine cloth and share a guide for the curious and creative traveller seeking out its continuing story in Scotland.

For now, it’s worth remembering this:

Harris Tweed is a truly sustainable industry that has supported the economy of the Outer Hebrides for generations. Choosing genuine Harris Tweed helps sustain local jobs, preserves a unique island craft, and offers a beautiful alternative to mass‑produced, machine‑made fabrics. Supporting this industry ensures that there are still employment opportunities on the isles for those who live there. It’s made to last a lifetime and carries a guarantee of quality you can trust.

6 Times

6 Times is a sculpture project running through the heart of Edinburgh.

Six life-size figures mark out a watery walking route from the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art to the sea. Each figure, the familiar Antony Gormley shape and gaze, looks in a slightly different direction en route. The first and last figures of the sequence are compelled to gaze out towards the sea. They may be cast in iron and appear stoical, but they also seem vulnerable, or perhaps stuck, or wishing to move forwards to the sea – perhaps back to the sea? All are eroding in different ways from the elements and environment they are placed in.

The artist questions how humans fit into the urban environment and adapt to the natural landscape. Our interaction with human forms, the space around them, nature and weather is shown to us through these sculptures and perhaps we read them in different ways based on our own experience. Are they happy, frightened, excited, bored, lost, found? It’s open to interpretation.

Water of Leith

The Water of Leith river runs from the Pentland Hills flowing north through Edinburgh to the Firth of Forth. Once lined by mills powered by the water, humans have reacted to its environment for centuries. The river has incorporated both the natural and the manufactured for centuries and its water once was deemed to have healing benefits.

A riverside path runs from Balerno to Leith waterfront and is maintained by Water of Leith Conservation Trust. It is a designated Urban Wildlife Site with herons, mallards, swans, bats, tree creepers and owls spotted along the route. The walk along the Water of Leith is a 12 mile (20km) stretch and a great way of walking across the city without negotiating city traffic.

The Antony Gormley figures first appeared in Edinburgh in the summer of 2010, commissioned by the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art for £380,000, with support from the Art Fund Gulbenkian Museum of the Year Award 2004, Clare Enders and The Henry Moore Foundation and as part of the National Gallery of Scotland collection.

Follow Antony Gormley’s 6 Times art trail

Each full-bodied cast-iron figure gazes towards the direction of the distant point where the river meets the sea.

Figure I: Gallery of Modern Art

This easy-to-spot figure is buried to the waist in tarmac outside the entrance to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art in Belford Road. Easy to spot, yet easy to trip up over and easy to sit on their shoulders if you have a yearning – many do!

Figure II: Bell’s Mills

Situated in the water, the figure looks skywards, close to where the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art connects to the Water of Leith at Bell’s Mills. There has been a mill on this site since the 11th Century, the last one turning sawdust into wood flour until 1971.

Figure III: Stockbridge

Situated in the water near the bridge at Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge. This figure looks downwards through the bridge. You can get the clearest view from the bridge.

Figure IV: Powderhall

Situated in the water near St Mark’s Park and gazing down the river to its right hand side. Powder Hall was a mansion built in early 18th Century, taking its name from the gunpowder mill situated there c1695. It is also the site of the old Powderhall athletic stadium built c1870, converted to greyhound racing and motorcycle speedway until 1999.

Figure V: Bonnington

Situated in the water near Newhaven Road. The figure gazes leftwards. Once named Bonnytoun, this former mill village. Some buildings still remain from the 17th Century. You can still find an old waterwheel at Bonnington Mill.

Figure VI: Leith Docks

Situated at the end of an abandoned, ruined pier at Western Harbour near Ocean Terminal, gazing out to the point where the river meets the sea, at the mouth of the harbour. It can be seen by cruise ship passengers coming in to Edinburgh to dock. Both the pier and the cast iron figure are altered by the elements. Alone. Anonymous. Determined and resolute despite a load of bird crap dumped over its head over time. Tethered human, tethered boat, human versus boat.

Cast-iron dimensions: lifesize. Each: 191 x 50 x 36 cm

Some went missing for several years. What happened to them?

Four out of the six figures had to be put in storage indefinitely for a number of years. The ones situated in the Water of Leith were pushed over by high tides after heavy rainfall in summer 2010. They are hinged at the base to collapse and secure them during bad weather and high tides. However, the hinges constantly toppled the sculptures which were then unable to stand up again as they should when the water pressure falls.

Whilst a flood prevention scheme was being discussed, the figures were considered too expensive to maintain in the water and were put into safe storage indefinitely until an alternative solution could be found. So, only Figure I and VI remained in place for several years while talks continued about how to reinstate the missing figures to the Water of Leith. Now they are back in place permanently.

Antony Gormley is best known for his Angel of the North sculpture in Gateshead and Another Place at Crosby Beach in Merseyside. Some other Gormley projects are located in Stavanger, Cuxhaven, Vorarlberg and New York.

More Antony Gormley in Scotland:

Saddell Bay, Kintyre

Jupiter Artland, Edinburgh

Maggie’s Centre, Dundee

Doors Open Day 2025

My highlight of September is taking in the Doors Open Day events around Scotland. This is a great opportunity to see structures, architecture and artworks that are not typically available for public view. It also highlights some hidden gems that even the locals are unaware of. This year’s theme is Architectural Heritage: Windows to the Past, Doors to the Future.

• September 6th/7th:

  Aberdeen City, Badenoch and Strathspey, Dumfries and Galloway, East Dunbartonshire, East Fife, Inverclyde, Outer Hebrides, Renfrewshire, Scottish Borders, Shetland, South Lanarkshire.

• September 13th/14th:

  Angus, Ayrshire, Central Fife, Midlothian, Moray, North Lanarkshire, Orkney, Perth and Kinross, Skye and Lochaber.

• September 20th/21st:

  Aberdeenshire, Argyll and Bute, Caithness and Sutherland, East Renfrewshire, Falkirk, Glasgow, Inverness, Black Isle, Ross and Cromarty, West Fife, West Lothian.

• September 27th/28th:

  Clackmannanshire, Dundee, East Lothian, Edinburgh, Stirling.

Have a look at the programme here

New mural for Colinton, Edinburgh

The latest mural by Chris Rutterford has been unveiled. The artist known for the much-loved murals at Colinton tunnel (completed in 2022) has now transformed Cuddies Lane into a heritage mural. Cuddie is a Scots word for a pack-horse or donkey.

The foot of the mural pays tribute to Phoebe Anna Traquair who designed the nearby railings decoration in the early 1920s. Find out more about the mural here or check out the artist’s Instagram video post below.

📍 Cuddies Lane, Colinton, Edinburgh, EH13 0LQ, Lothian Bus 10,16,18,45

Walcome tae Scots Wikipedia

Jist in case you didna ken, there’s a Scots wikipedia and if ye did ken, ye’ll be thrangsome wi’ it. It wis shapit on 23rd Juin 2005 an’ his 34,322 airticles the nou.

Scots is an officially recognised language, divergent from English since at least the fourteenth century. You can explore the Dictionaries of the Scots Language here - I can recommend exploring the Word of the Week.

You can also follow poet Len Pennie for her Scots word of the day.

And if you want to take your learning to another level, yes, there is also a Scots Gaelic wikipedia known as Uicipeid

You’re welcome.

Wild Mountain Thyme, the unknown verse

Listen to the gorgeous voice of Kirsteen Harvey, singing the verse that no-one seems to know…

Witch of the West tattoo studio, Glasgow

📍 7-9 Derby Street, Finnieston, Glasgow, G3 7TJ

Follow the yellow brick road to get your tattoo on in Glasgow. Tattoo artist Anj Woods dedicated the interior design of her tattoo studio in tribute to her late mother. Anj trained as a stained-glass artist and has been tattooing in Glasgow for 25 years, opening her own studio in 2023. The studio is accessible to wheelchairs. Art is by Glasgow-based spray-paint artist Rogueoner. Take a wee tour at the Instagram video below:

Colony of Artists celebrates 20 years

20-21st September

📍Abbeyhill Colonies, between London Road and Rossie Place, Edinburgh

Abbeyhill Colony of Artists Festival has grown arms and legs since its first launch in 2005. A group of local artists at the Abbeyhill colonies flats in Edinburgh flung open their doors to turn their homes into galleries for a weekend. The Colony of Artists is also responsible for the colourful shop shutter designs around the neighbourhood businesses and the local mural trail. This year there will also be art and history walking tours and talks, a photo exhibition, art demos, and a festival hub with local music, food and drink. See the work of over fifty artists and join in the festivities that spill out onto the streets.

Captivating new documentary on a forgotten local history

Scottish poet Gerda Stevenson’s fascinating documentary on the community history of Penicuik paper mills. This is a poetic, locally-made documentary on the history of the paper mills community on the banks of the North Esk River. The paper mills have long gone but the memories have been preserved and meditated upon in this new artwork.

That’s all for now. Haste ye back.

Every January for over 100 years, the National Gallery of Scotland has shown 38 watercolours by Joseph Mallord William Turner (1775-1851), free to the public in a dimly-lit room without windows. It’s a highlight for many, locals and visitors included. For most locals it's a New Year treat or, in my case, a birthday tradition. If you are lucky enough to go when it’s quiet, it is a rare meditative and relaxing experience within a public space.

During Covid lockdown the gallery brought the exhibition online so that the public can still view the works, apparently making this the longest-running single-artist exhibition in the world.

Henry Vaughan Collection

The collection was bequeathed to the nation in 1901 by well-travelled Victorian art collector Henry Vaughan after his death in 1899. He was a champion of art education as well as forward-thinking. At his request:

• the watercolours can only be displayed in January, when daylight is at its weakest.

• the exhibition must be free and not shown at any other time, except by special request to view them from a purpose-built cabinet.

He also gifted some of the collection to the National Gallery of Ireland with the same rules. Henry knew that JMW Turner was well-known in Scotland and Ireland but also knew that there were not many of his works in those public collections. Turner left his entire private collection to the Tate Gallery in London after his death in 1851.

Turner toured Scotland

Although only five of the 38 artworks in the Vaughan Collection are of Scotland scenes, JMW Turner made numerous artworks from his travels in Scotland. The artist was inspired on location to create contemporary landscapes in his distinctive style (controversial for the time). He went to great lengths to capture the romantic nature of landscapes and the elemental moods of the weather. Scotland provided the perfect conditions for these challenges.

The artist began travelling to Scotland in the 1790s and visited at least six times from 1797-1834. In 1797 he visited the Borders Abbeys at Kelso, Jedburgh, Dryburgh and Melrose whilst on a trip to Northumberland.

Inspired by this trip, in 1801 he went on an extended tour of Scotland stopping off at Dunbar and Tantallon Catsle on his way to a week’s stay in Edinburgh. He then travelled on to Glasgow, the west shore of Loch Lomond, Inveraray, Loch Tay, Stirling and Lanark returning to England via the turnpike road between Moffat and Gretna. In 1801 it would have taken 60 hours to travel from London to Edinburgh by mail coach on the turnpike road network. Once you were in the Highlands of Scotland, travel was by old military roads - considerably slower - covering about 20 miles per day.

In 1818 he was invited to illustrate ‘Provincial Antiquities and Picturesque Scenery of Scotland’, a serial publishing project led by writer Sir Walter Scott. For this, he travelled to Scotland producing 10 watercolours including ‘Edinburgh from Calton Hill’ and ‘Heriot’s Hospital, Edinburgh’. It was published in ten parts between 1819 and 1826, but it was cut short due to a lack of commercial success.

In 1822, 1831 and 1834 he made illustrations for Walter Scott (famously his Poetical Works, 1833) and they became friends. Between 1830 and 1839 he produced illustrations other Scottish authors, including poet Thomas Campbell and Lord Byron.

In total Turner produced ten oil paintings, around 100 watercolours, 25 sketchbooks and numerous prints from his Scotland travels.

Take a deeper dive into Turner’s Scottish tours with art historian David Hill to see how these viewpoints look today

Aberdeen Art Gallery exhibition

In 1982, Aberdeen Art Gallery produced a major exhibition of Turner’s works in Scotland, mapping out the various trips in the catalogue.

Turner in Edinburgh

Turner was typically based in Edinburgh whilst planning his tours of Scotland. There are two locations in Edinburgh that you can still visit today to see the viewpoint Turner would have witnessed. Here are two views from Calton Hill.

Here is a view of George Heriot's Hospital in Edinburgh is now George Heriot's School and you can just make it out in the background of this view from West Bow (where Victoria Street meets Grassmarket).

Abbotsford House, Melrose

JMW Turner stayed here at the house of Sir Walter Scott in August 1831. He owned eight of Turner’s watercolours for the 1818 publication which were once hung in the breakfast room at Abbotsford House. There are two small watercolours by Turner that remain in the Abbotsford art collection although not currently on display.

Skye

In 1831 Turner risked his life to get a good viewpoint for his sketch of Loch Curuisk (Isle of Skye) to illustrate an edition of Sir Walter Scott’s poem Lord of the Isles.

Legend has it that a kelpie lives in this loch, situated south of the Cuillins. Turner possibly entered Loch Coruisk from Elgol by Scavaig River leading to Loch Scavaig sea loch to the south. He would have hiked Sgurr na Stri to the east of the loch to get a view looking north west along Loch Coruisk. He fell, almost killing himself, trying to get the best view, possibly attempting ‘The Bad Step’ which still exists.

Staffa

Another Lord of the Isles project was a similarly treacherous visit to the Isle of Staffa. Following a rough crossing in the steamer The Maid of Morven, he struggled across wet rocks to Fingal's cave for a better viewpoint.

The Falls of Clyde

One of Scotland's natural attractions, the impressive Falls of Clyde are worth a visit. Take the walk outlined here and visit UNESCO World Heritage Site New Lanark along the way.

Find other JMW Turner artworks kept in Scotland here

Turner's own collection of his works was gifted to the Tate Gallery in his will and most of them can be found here or viewed online.

View the whole NGS collection here

Holyrood Distillery is tucked away just behind St Leonard’s Police Station (AKA Inspector Rebus’ station) in the shadow of Arthur’s Seat. The building is the original St Leonard’s Station warehouse for Edinburgh & Dalkeith railway line - or the ‘Innocent Railway’ line - before it closed in 1968. This was Edinburgh’s first railway, opened in 1831. It was built to carry coal and agricultural goods by horse and rope until 1846 when a steam engine began to carry passengers. There was also a brewery on this site.

I took a tasting tour of Holyrood Distillery, Edinburgh’s first malt whisky distillery since 1925. Founded in 2019, this is no traditional malt whisky producer and they’re doing great things to bring whisky production into a new era where taste trumps age. Much like wine, the best one is the one you like the taste of. As Courtney explained on the tour, the reason old whisky is more expensive is due to its reduction in volume over the years of ageing making it more expensive to produce - the Angel’s Share in Scotland and the Devil’s Cut in USA (where it is taxed). This loss of volume is also the reason why hot climate countries struggle to make aged whisky, the cost loss through evaporation is too much.

In 2023, the first ever single malt was available at Holyrood Distillery. It has now sold out. There are three malts currently available. Ambir, due to the colour, Embra, another using sherry barrels giving it a sweeter taste and their first smoky whisky, designed to the taste of those who don’t like really peaty whisky.

The flavours are created by using different types of malt (including heirloom barley varieties) and yeast and then using different types of casks. The staff motto below encourages experimentation with the emphasis on flavour optimisation.

This ethos will certainly appeal to those not steeped in whisky tradition or a more rebellious whisky drinker. It can also appeal to those who perhaps have not been all that interested in whisky culture. Making small batches of limited quantity, the distillery takes inspiration from small breweries craft beer production to innovate and perhaps appeal to a younger or more experimental drinker.

They also have an array of New Make baby whiskies, not yet aged in their casks. I can testify that it tastes good in a cocktail. Of course they also have gin, which is made from juniper berries harvested in Inverness, mixing it with beeswax and sea salt for texture and flavour. I enjoyed their Height of Arrows gin (after the Gaelic name for Arthur’s Seat àirde nan saighdean) and I don’t even like gin.

They also have collaborated with local artists and art students to create special limited edition artworks for sale in the shop. There are two bars, one for nips and one for whisky flights and cocktails - with a great view of the Crags in Holyrood Park.

It’s easy to walk there from Holyrood Park itself - just take the stepped path up from Queens Drive on the Salisbury Crags side of the park and you’re right there. Any bus that goes towards Newington along South Bridge will get you close too.

Book a tasting tour

19 St Leonard’s Lane, Edinburgh EH8 9SH

Do also have a wee visit to The Innocent Railway tunnel nearby (now a pedestrian and cycle path) and Edinburgh’s first ever railway tunnel. You can spot one of Helen Miles’ street mosaics at the mouth of the tunnel.

David Ramsay, watchmaker to King James VI and I

One of the most fascinating objects from the King James exhibition at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery is this silver pendant watch King James gave to one of his ‘favourites’ c. 1615. It’s an interesting section of the exhibition, casting a modern eye on the sexuality of the King. Go and see it before it ends on 14th September.

There are fourteen known surviving examples of similar watches made by watchmaker David Ramsay in the 17th Century.

The watch has a tiny portrait of the king and queen inside and could tell the time, day and month of the year as well as the zodiac and moon phases.

Check out the signature 'David Ramsay Scotus me fecit' (David Ramsay, Scotsman, made me).

Images © National Museums Scotland

Dido Belle returns to Scone Palace

And while we’re on the subject of old Scottish kings.

Scone Palace, where kings of Scotland were once crowned, welcomes back home its favourite and most visited painting after spending most of this year at an exhibition in England.

Read the story here

A look at the life of Dido Belle:

Take a deep dive into the painting at the presentation below:

STILL sculpture returns to Loch Earn

And while we’re on the theme of returns…

The sculpture above is STILL by Rob Mulholland situated at Loch Earn. It was first installed in 2014 but mysteriously removed by the owner in 2017. Also known as Mirror Man, this beloved three-metre tall figure has recently returned to the water at St Fillans village thanks to a local campaign. The community of St Fillans is now the owner of the artwork.

If you’re looking for some non-AI awe-inspiring photography prints of the Scottish landscape and night sky, check out Steven Robinson.

Outlander dress on display at Culross Palace

One of Outlander’s most interesting characters is Geillis Duncan, named after the real life maidservant who was accused of witchcraft in Scotland in 1590. She was forced to name others which led to the first major witchcraft persecution in Scotland (North Berwick). She was tortured into a confession and imprisoned. Her nature for tending to the sick and disappearing nightly led to a witchcraft accusation by her employer.

The wool costume used in the Outlander TV series was designed with a nod to the character’s return in the 1960s. Culross Palace was used for many scenes involving the character in seasons 1-3. The dress is on display now until the end of October at Culross Palace.

Edinburgh Festival Substack recommendations

Here’s my list of Edinburgh Substacks to subscribe for navigating the chaos of the Edinburgh Festivals in August:

Edinburgh Festival Minute by The Edinburgh Minute

The Edinburgh Reporter

The Edinburgh Muse

Women Who Write Edinburgh

Dont Fear the Fringe by The Good Egg Project

National Galleries of Scotland typically launches its summer exhibition just in time for the festival crowds about to descend on the city. This year Andy Goldsworthy is taking the spotlight. Here are some highlights from the exhibition.

You wouldn’t immediately expect to see Andy Goldsworthy’s latest works within the hallowed chambers of the Royal Scottish Academy building. It was completed in 1826 and looks much like it did 200 years ago. However, his latest artworks have come by invitation to celebrate 50 years as an artist. Taking inspiration from the building, Andy seems to have relished the challenge of taking his art indoors. When talking about setting up the exhibition, he pointed out that nature exists everywhere, not just in rural spaces, it doesn’t stop at the city boundary.

Andy Goldsworthy has lived in Dumfriesshire, Scotland since 1985. In that time, he has transformed from land art pioneer to an icon of outdoor artworks. After 50 years, he continues to push the boundaries of our relationship with the natural world, its materials and how we use them to enhance our lives and our environment.

Wool runner

The first work, Wool Runner, gets you thinking before you even enter the gallery space. I was tempted to step barefoot onto the sheep fleece runner that hugs the space where the old runner used to sit. The fleece is patterned with colour markings the farmers use to code the sheep. In this new context the inherent beauty of nature hits you.

Sheep Paintings and Fence

Sheep poop and mud feature in these artworks and look perfect in the lobby space. The canvases are mounted on boards wedged into the alcoves. There’s a surprising serenity that you wouldn’t expect from a canvas placed into a field of sheep. A feeding block placed on top and then removed creates the negative space. A barbed wire fence on steroids straddles the columns.

The gallery conservation team worked constantly with the artist to ensure no damage or danger to the RSA building. Andy says he felt inspired by these constraints and adaptations.

Gravestones

For some years Andy has been curious to do something with the stones salvaged from grave-digging. He wants to acknowledge them as symbolic, showing the exchange between body and earth, instead of discarded. Using the skylight as the only light source creates a poignant energy here.

Skylight

Again using only natural light, reed mace (bullrushes) from Scottish lochs was used to create this curtained chamber that you can step into and feel the light change. You get the sense of nature’s relationship with light and how much we rely on the forms and functions of the natural world.

Red Wall

Red earth is used by local farmers to mark the sheep. The redness is due to the high iron content of the earth. The artist is reminding us that we are bound to the earth by blood. This artwork can only be made over the space of two days to get the right texture of crack.

The paintings opposite are canvases that covered the tables on which the red clay was moulded into balls to make the artwork. Artists are known to make a mess in order to make their marks so it’s interesting to incorporate the mess into the exhibitions to create complementary artworks.

Oak Passage

This one is an instant crowdpleaser. Twisted oak branches, fallen from storm-damaged trees, are trimmed to perfection to create a surreal catwalk. Andy wanted it to be a reminder that the oak flooring of the gallery was also once a tree and that a building is part of nature too.

The retrospective works fill the rest of the space over two floors. Downstairs you’ll find Andy’s older and early-career works, ephemeral explorations and installations made permanent through capturing on video and photography. They give context to the work upstairs. So, I went back for a second tour around the new works.

This exhibition inspires creativity and thinking around our relationship to the natural world and its elements. The gallery space intensifies their aesthetics. The senses awaken: touch, sight, smell, hearing, and somehow even taste. I’ll be returning to this space for sure.

Andy Goldsworthy: Fifty Years

26 July - 2 November 2025

National Galleries of Scotland at the RSA building (Princes Street entrance at The Mound)

Scottish-born mosaic artist Helen Miles began installing graffiti mosaics around Edinburgh after returning to Scotland from Greece in 2017. On settling in Edinburgh she was looking for ways to connect with the environment and community around her. Most of her works are in the east end of Edinburgh and not far from her current studio at Out Of The Blue Abbeymount Studios.

Helen studied English at Oxford University and worked as a journalist around the world before moving to Greece in 2001. There she trained in mosaic-making methods with Greek master craftspeople in Thessaloniki and Athens, focussing on Byzantine iconography. She also took inspiration from Roman mosaic traditions, iconography and aesthetics.

Working in Greek stone and marble, Helen makes classically-inspired commissioned mosaics for interior and exterior spaces, as well as teaching and writing about the subject.

Little did I know that the artist responsible for a mosaic that I had affectionately come to know as ‘fag lady’ was the same artist who did the abstract mosaics I would later stumble upon and marvel at during lockdown. Seeing ‘fag lady’ was the first time I saw mosaic street art in Edinburgh, having seen already in Aberdeen and been impressed by UK artist Carrie Reichardt. Helen Miles assisted her with the Everyday Heroes street mosaic mural in Aberdeen (for Nuart 2017) and was also inspired by another guerilla mosaic artist Jim Bachor in Chicago who fixes potholes with mosaic artworks.

‘Personification of Spring in the Age of Climate Breakdown’

Described as a chain-smoking woman representing a modern version of the Roman ideal of welcoming the season. Spring will typically have flowers in her hair as this one does. Installed early June 2019, this is the first Helen Miles mosaic that I spotted and it immediately sparked my curiosity. This was an expert mosaic-maker. ‘Fag lady’ had intrigued me.

And so it began, I went on a treasure hunt to find all the hidden places Helen had secretly installed the murals, giving little clues on her Instagram as each one was revealed.

Calton Hill mosaics

Helen’s first adventure in graffiti mosaics was at Calton Hill in January 2018. It was here she unveiled three mosaics in some of the most unpopulated and neglected corners of this Victorian park which sits upon volcanic rocks close to Holyrood Park.

First up was an eye, looking south out over Holyrood, probably installed around 14th January 2018. I found the original mesh base attached to the rock as the mosaic has been destroyed over time.

Then there was the ‘Why Me?’ mosaic, installed around 15th January 2018. It’s a speech bubble added to an existing piece of photo-graffiti of a crying girl. It has a serif Roman font. This had been spray-painted over with bright red graffiti which was then removed by the local council. However, they generously left the original artwork and Helen’s mosaic and tried to clean it all up as you see it now.

Next came a mouse – installed around 16th January 2018. This took a long time for me to discover as it’s on a path I’d never gone down before.

Not too far from there is ‘the key’ at the door to Regent Gardens, a private enclosed garden. See if you can find it:

‘2nd Century flower’ was added 18th April 2023 in the shadow of Calton Hill, locate Jacob’s Ladder to find this little beauty.

How did the artist manage to get them installed so quickly and without being seen?

Helen constructed the mosaics in advance onto pre-prepared mesh. She’d arrive on site in the early hours when walking her dog Farook. Fast-setting tile adhesive and grout was applied quickly to the mosaic whilst Farook kept a lookout. Sadly, Farook died last year.

Warriston Cemetery mosaics

Two mosaics can be found around Warriston Cemetery:

Crow with red heels

On the side of a stone bridge where crows gather on the edge of this overgrown and neglected Victorian cemetery. This sassy crow was installed 21st October 2018.

photos ©Artravelist on 6 Sept 2020

Here Lies

Installed 1st Nov 2019. Ceramic tiles spell out ‘Here Lies’

other Helen Miles mosaics in Edinburgh

If you fancy a bit of mosaic-hunting, here’s some more to seek out in Edinburgh. I still have a few more to find and capture on camera.

‘Her Jesty’

This one is on the wall of a bridge near Palace of Holyrood House.

‘flower’

This one is at Scotland Street tunnel.

Apparently this one is no longer visible, buried under graffiti. There is another abstract mosaic at the tunnel on the left just before you reach Tesco end of the tunnel. It may have been added around November 2022.

‘three fishes’

Along a stretch of Water of Leith walkway, west of the Gallery of Modern Art, are three fish swimming in a line.

look our for the abstract mosaics

The abstract mosaic series project began during Covid19 between lockdowns when the artist named them as Virus. I found my first one (Virus#2) back in March on the route of my daily walk to Holyrood Park and kept wondering who the artist was. Each virus is easy to spot but appears in locations which are tucked away and somewhat neglected. For this reason, as well as lack of visibility, I wouldn’t recommend you go mosaic hunting after dark.

Virus#1

This abstract is earthy brown and uses Scottish stone, pebble and shell. I stumbled upon this one by accident on the sloped path between Regent Road and Calton Road - installed around 20th March 2020.

Virus#2

This was installed over some 1980s graffiti using Smalti, slate, crockery, sandstone, shell, beach glass, burnt door handle surround and millefiore. Installed around 28th March 2020.

Virus #3

This mosaic, on the sea wall at Portobello beach, was installed around 22 March 2020. It’s made of shells, metal, glass, plastic, Greek marble, coins, false teeth and Scottish stone. I couldn’t get close enough for a detailed photo as the tide was in. The video shows how close I could get without getting soaked. One day the sea might reclaim it and the mosaic will disappear.

Virus #4

This one in Canonmills has subtle tones with a petal-like pattern in Greek marble, glazed ceramic tile and shell. Installed around 23 March 2020, it complements the graffiti already there.

Helen Miles made some further abstract mosaics in her studio during lockdown. So, let’s…

…treasure hunt the other virus mosaics

I found this one along the Water of Leith (Canonmills section). Once again, I just stumbled upon it by accident.

This abstract mosaic with a button at its core is at the Innocent Railway Tunnel - installed after 14th August 2020

I stumbled across this one by accident at King George V Park:

Some other other Helen Miles abstract mosaics I haven’t yet discovered:

A pills virus abstract at the former Royal Infirmary

I will add more if/when I can find them. Have you seen any? Let me know in the comments if you spot any of these or any others around Edinburgh. Also ask me in the comments or message me if you’d like to know exactly where to find a mosaic.

Portobello Beach

A memorial tribute to the life of Emma, a young local woman.

The latest street mosaic below, is a protest against the annihilation of the people of Gaza - no idea where this one is…yet

Helen Miles teaches mosaic art workshops in Edinburgh, including how to make your own abstract mosaics. Helen’s public art mosaics have stood the test of time and the Edinburgh weather. The fact that they’ve done so is testament to the skill and quality used to create these works of art.

Balgone Estate Farm has just opened the sunflower trail for bookings in August. Slots go quick at weekends so it’s best to book ahead. This year they’re open for adults-only evening bookings too so you can capture the sunset hours.

This sea of sunflowers by the sea is a wee bit of magic for an hour or two in East Lothian. Catch it on a warm day for respite from the Edinburgh Festival mayhem of August.

Balgone Estate’s annual Sunflower Trail is a ten-minute bus trip (or a two-mile walk) from the seaside town of North Berwick. Every August - and only in August - you can visit this maze of sunflowers, stop off for some enhanced selfie opportunities and pick your own sunflowers for a small charity donation.

I took guests on a tour there last year. Due to a colder summer, the sunflowers were not quite so high as previously - you’ll see that in my photos. Typically though, it’ll feel just like a maze. Each turn of the trail is a new opportunity for photography and sketching. There are a few surprise surreal stops along the way too.

a Scottish sunflower summer stroll

Ask any local resident of Edinburgh, they’re likely unaware of this hidden golden treasure close to Berwick Law. On arrival at Balgone Estate, the spectacle of thousands of radiant yellow sunflowers greeting you is pretty magical.

You can meander along the trail, enjoy the vibrant hues of cheery sunflowers with a smattering of wildflowers around its border.

pick your own sunflowers

Balgone Estate Sunflower Trail is more than just a visual feast of flowers. Get hands-on with the secateurs and take a bunch home with you. Take a moment to breathe in the fresh air and listen to the soft rustle of the petals and the odd bee buzz here and there.

Practicalities:

• getting there by public transport: from Edinburgh, just a half hour trip to North Berwick on the train. Walk along the John Muir Way from North Berwick or take a short ten-minute country ride on the 121 North Berwick – Haddington bus.

• timing: The sunflowers are in full bloom only in August, so plan your visit accordingly. Early mornings or late afternoons provide the most spectacular lighting for photography. It can get busy mid-day.

• what to bring: comfy shoes you don’t mind getting muddy, and your camera.

• pick your own sunflowers: make your own bouquet – with some profits going to charity.

• facilities: portaloos, picnic areas, cafe, local street food trucks.

• seasonal attraction only: only open in August. Visit in October to catch the pumpkin patch.

• book in advance: book online or by phone and pick a time slot. It can sell out at weekends.

time travel fact: the Balgone Estate is located on a volcanic fault line.

My trip to Balgone Estate’s Sunflower Trail was quirky, simple and fun. If you’re looking to add something different to your Edinburgh adventure and see a bit of the countryside, it’s worth a trip.

So pack a day bag, grab your camera, and treat yourself to Balgone this August.

A song written for Dundee artist James Howie (1931 - 2011), written and performed live by the late, great Michael Marra - an admirer of Frida Kahlo. He re-imagines Frida finding after-life happiness at the Taybridge Bar in Dundee. Such happiness comes to Frida after she dies and reaches “the pearly gates, where Saint Peter was pumping weights”. And, what did Saint Peter say to Frida?

If that doesn’t inspire you to write a song to your favourite artist, I can’t help you.

Skye before the bridge

bumper month for wildlife on Water of Leith, Edinburgh

Martin Parr’s remote Scottish postboxes

Documentary photographer Martin Parr is best known for his scenes from everyday life. He has documented Scotland a lot over the years. But did you know in 2017 he published a book of Scottish post boxes he discovered whilst on trips with his wife Susie to the remotest parts of Scotland? It’s a book full of cute wee design classics in evocative settings.

highlights from MacBeth exhibition at Perth Museum

until 31st August 2025

This summer exhibition explores William Shakespeare’s re-imagining of the story of King MacBeth (1040-1057).

This compact exhibition, places MacBeth sympathetically within the context of the Scottish Witch Trials, the reign of James VI/I and the Perthshire landscape. We find out how MacBeth connects to Dunkeld Cathedral, Glamis Castle, Moot Hill, The Birnam Oak, Dunsinane Hill and Loch Leven priory.

We also get a peek at William Shakespeare’s First Folio, where MacBeth was first printed.

The exhibition continues to explore depictions of the Scottish play in theatre and film with posters, set designs, costumes and film clips.

Perth Museum opened its doors in 2024 following a major refurbishment and was shortlisted for this year’s Art Fund Museum of the Year award. Originally Perth City Hall, this Edwardian building has been transformed into a friendly, welcoming space. It once was part of the burial site of St John’s Kirk next door, gifted to the town by Anne of Denmark, King James’ wife.

The museum is also the new permanent home to the Stone of Destiny, an ancient symbol of monarchy and king-making still in use today. It’s finally returned to Perthshire after 700 years. You’ll find plenty of fascinating and quirky items here from the collection - spanning ancient to modern history and a small collection of natural history objects and a huge cafe.

That’s all for now.

From Scotland with love x

Did you know there are two Barbara Hepworth bronze sculptures at Edinburgh's Royal Botanic Gardens? Unlike museum pieces behind ropes and glass, these art works merge with the landscape as if they've grown alongside the gardens.

Here, we can do what few art experiences allow. We can get up close, circle around, touch the textured bronze surfaces, and feel the same shapes that Hepworth's hands once formed. We can even give them a sniff! Yes, I did 🥴

where to find them

As you enter the gardens through the East Gate, "Ascending Form (Gloria)" greets you just to the right of the café and toilets. Venture just a little farther west, and you'll discover "Rock Form (Porthcurno)" tucked into a secluded clearing among the foliage.

Rock Form (Porthcurno), 1964

Standing at almost 244cm tall, this bronze sculpture was inspired by the rocks at Porthcurno near Hepworth's home in Cornwall. The caves at Porthcurno are naturally carved into coastal rocks, creating smooth surfaces with rough outer shells.

Within the gardens, the sculpture's green patina on the outer surface contrasts with the smoothly carved openings. While originally exploring the natural relationship between land and sea, it seems perfectly at home here among the surrounding trees and plants.

This piece is one of six casts - others can be found in Cornwall, Boston, Pasadena, and Philadelphia.

Ascending Form (Gloria), 1958

Standing 190.5cm tall near the East Gate, this piece gives out semi-religious statue vibes. A robed figure rests upon a small diamond shape with intricate folds inside the outer form? It does suggest multiple interpretations of course: soft cloth or skins, one shape ascending from another, or even growth like a seed sprouting. What do you see?

Another cast of this work is in St Ives, Cornwall. It marks the entrance to the cemetery where Hepworth is buried.

This influential artist encouraged us to get close, touch them, have our own relationship with them. They are accessible.

‘I rarely draw what I see. I draw what I feel in my body’

— Barbara Hepworth

Hepworth insisted her work belonged not behind museum walls but in the open air where light, weather, and seasons could become part of the artistic conversation. The intermittent Edinburgh rain showers and weather elements at the Botanics only enhances the experience, creating a dynamic dialogue between sculpture and environment.

If you visit the Royal Botanic Gardens, take time to seek out these hidden sculptural gems, run your fingers along their bronze surfaces, and experience art the way Hepworth intended, as a full-bodied conversation between human creativity and the natural world.

Watch this poetic film of Barbara Hepworth at work on her sculptures:

some history

The Botanic Gardens house seven outdoor sculpture works. The two Hepworth pieces have held a special place in the artistic heart of the gardens since 1976, shortly after Hepworth's death, age 72.

For decades these bronzes were on loan from the artist's estate. But in 2013, the National Galleries of Scotland officially acquired them, ensuring that garden visitors would continue to discover these treasures in this organic gallery setting.

Inverleith House, the art gallery still in use within the gardens, was originally home to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (from 1960-1984), a significant part of Scotland's modern art history.

He played alongside some of the greats of the 1960s folk rock scene, Bob Dylan, Joan Baez, David Bowie, The Byrds and Fairport Convention, whilst also releasing several solo albums in the 1970s. He was a singer, songwriter and musician whose heart belonged to Scotland. Marc Ellington chose to follow his heart.

Marc Ellington was born in Boston Massachusetts in 1945, his Scottish-born father was a local radio broadcaster and pioneer of audio books for the blind. Marc began his music career as a member of The Highwaymen in 1960s Oregon.

In 1967, Marc and younger brother Eric moved to the UK to avoid being drafted to war in Vietnam. Marc and his girlfriend, Karen Streator, ran an antiques business back in the USA. They took a flight from Oregon to Glasgow Prestwick and got married in London. Marc was the first American to publicly refuse the Vietnam draft in the UK. When his visa expired he presented himself at St Paul's Cathedral asking for sanctuary as a symbolic gesture. He was later granted British citizenship in 1979.

Marc made a few albums whilst in London and made a name for himself in the folk-revival music scene. By 1969 Marc and Karen were scouring Scotland looking to buy a traditional property. They came across Towie Barclay Castle, near Turriff in Aberdeenshire - a half-ruined 16th Century tower house that hadn't been lived in for 200 years. They bought it for just a few thousand pounds and changed the course of their lives. The couple went to great lengths to renovate the castle, living on site in a caravan. It became a painstaking four year renovation project.

They faithfully stuck to traditional techniques in keeping with its history, entirely funded by Marc's music catalogue and gigs around the folk clubs of Scotland. The work earned them a Saltire Society Award in 1973. Through her meticulous project management and reconstruction of the castle's gardens, Karen became an award-winning creative horticulturist and garden designer.

Marc and Karen realised that traditional craftsman skills were being rapidly lost in Scotland and set up the Scottish Traditional Skills Training Centre to encourage skills in building restoration such as lime-mortar work, stonemasonry, roofing, drystane-dyking, hedge making and path maintenance. Marc's passion for conservation led him to become an influential figure in the protection of Scotland's built heritage.

Marc and Karen filled the house with artworks and antiques. It became their family home, with their two daughters Iona and Kirstie, until his death in 2021. You can see a video of the castle interior at the video below, presented by Karen Ellington:

By all accounts Marc was a thoughtful, charitable, rebellious and playful character and used his popularity and position for the good of the community and Scottish heritage. At first the landowning establishment wasn't too keen on his hippy values but he soon won them over.

He joined the boards of various cultural and historic institutions in Scotland and was instrumental in helping bring forgotten historical hidden gems back to life. He was also an environmental and wildlife campaigner, giving numerous talks on the important role art plays in education and culture. He loved the sea and owned a traditionally-built boat named De Tollie that he sailed along the coastline of Aberdeenshire. Marc also had a folk music show on 1970s Grampian TV (ITV network) called Marc Time.

Karen sold Towie Barclay Castle in 2023 and auctioned some of their fascinating antiques. View them at https://www.lyonandturnbull.com/stories/select-property-from-towie-barclay-castle

Towie Barclay remains a private home but public records hint that new owners are hotel investors - so it could well become available as a holiday or exclusive use let.

Alongside ownership of the castle, the couple also acquired lairdship of the old fishing villages of Gardenstown and Crovie in the Moray Firth as part of this estate, as well as the Tomnaverie stone circle.

But what of Marc's brother Eric. He too made Scotland his home in Crovie (pronounced “crivvy”). This old fishing village is in a traffic free bay, nestled at the foot of a cliff on the Moray Firth coast. The village was created after the Highland Clearances of the late 18th Century moved crofters off the land to make way for sheep. It’s now one of the best preserved fishing villages in Europe and great for a restful stay on a rugged coastline.

Eric Ellington carved a creative niche as a talented professional photographer of landscapes and interiors. He remained in Crovie with his wife, Elaine. Sadly Eric died from a stroke in 2010. You can still get your eyes on some of his photography in books: Eigg, Living in the Highlands and The Lost City, Old Aberdeen. Eric was a regular contributor to Scottish Field and The Scots magazines. Their son Jamie was brought up in Crovie. Jamie is currently living in New York finding great success as a professional photographer.

Their house in Crovie is available as a holiday cottage. It's a popular accommodation whose guests return time and again. And yes, you might come across a photo or two and find some creative inspiration in this characterful cottage.

Got any questions about planning a trip to Crovie? Stick them in the comments below and I’ll answer.

visit a lavender field in Scotland this summer

Tarhill Farm, Kinross KY13 9EZ

open July and August

Did you know that you can get home grown lavender oil here in Scotland? There's a lavender farm just outside Kinross growing seven different varieties of lavender where you can visit daily during the summer - July and August only. Learn about the hand-distilling process, dance through the lavender field and pick up their lavender oils and perfumes while you're there. Booking opened on 28th June, a ticket includes a pass for the whole day and an option to join the hourly farm tours.

No car? You can get there by Stagecoach X56 bus from Edinburgh and the walk is 30mins to an hour, taking in some of the Loch Leven Heritage Trail.

take the Macbeth Tour by e-bike

32 St John Street, Perth, Perth and Kinross PH1 5SP

The Macbeth e-bike tour with Dutch style bikes. So, no special gear needed and sitting upright to enjoy the scenery. Complementing the current Macbeth exhibition at Perth Museum, launched in 2024. The Macbeth Tour, offered by Highland Bike Tours departs from Perth is inspired by Shakespeare's Macbeth Act IV and includes stops at Birnam Wood and Dunsinane Hill - the location of Macbeth’s castle in the classic tragedy.

You'll be taking in the quiet country roads with a local guide and a half hour hike hike up to top of Dunsinane Hill with a lunch stop at Birnam Arts Centre. As expected, there is also a visit to the Birnam Oak, which is around 600 years old. Shakespeare himself may have even visited this tree.

Did you know that William Shakespeare visited Perth and Birnam in either 1589 or 1599, accounts are not clear on exact dates. He was travelling to Scotland as part of a touring comedic theatre troupe. Macbeth was king of Scotland from 1040 until 1057

Shakespeare's 'The Tragedie of Macbeth' was first published in 1623, when the witchcraft trials of Scotland were in full swing, and, as we know, witches feature significantly in the narrative of the play as a fictional element without connections to the real King Macbeth.

This is a tour for small groups (max 4) and approx. 78km/50mile loop tour. They can also do tours in Dutch language.

special anniversary walks in Glasgow

Glasgow Walking Tours

July - October 2025

Celebrating the 850th birthday of Glasgow, Walking Tours in Glasgow is offering a different theme every month until October. July's theme is Sauchiehall Street which is a treasure trove of art, architecture and history - great for visitors and residents alike. They also offer street art tours of the famous Glasgow murals.

That’s all for this week. If you enjoyed, please like, share and subscribe.

From Scotland, with love x

Perhaps you've never heard of him but this Scottish magician and music hall entertainer was one of the most famous and highly paid influencers and pioneers of his era and a friend of Harry Houdini.

He was Samuel Murphy Bodie, AKA Walford Bodie, AKA the Electrical Wizard of the North. Born in George Street, Aberdeen in 1869, he began performing in Stonehaven Town Hall in 1884, age 16, introducing electricity to his show. At that time, electricity was considered a mysterious force. The Bodie Show grew in popularity with illusions, hypnotism, magic tricks and ventriloquism.

Mystic Marie, La Belle Electra and Princess Rubie, the Henry Sisters

He married one of his fellow acts from the show, mind reader and illusionist Jeannie Henry AKA Princess Rubie.

Two of her sisters also got involved. Mary, musical director and telepathist, was known as Mystic Marie and Isabella was La Belle Electra. Isabella also performed as a chorus comedienne under the name Miss Bella Skene. Both Walford Bodie and Isabella would strap themselves into electric chairs and seemingly pass 30,000 volts through their body to light up various bulbs and lamps with their hands.

By 1900, he had renamed himself as Doctor Walford Bodie MD (cheekily claiming the MD stood for Merry Devil) and claimed to be a 'bloodless surgeon' curing people with electricity and hypnotism. The Bodie Show toured the UK, went viral and became known around the world. The methods he used on stage seem to be a mix of suggestion, electro-therapy, magnetism, physiotherapy and early use of NLP.

He fell from favour following a high profile trial and rioting student doctors challenging his claim to be a medical doctor, yet he still believed he was onto something. So, he then set up The Bodie Electric Drug Company of London, producing and selling ‘Dr Bodie’s Famous Electric Liniment’ and ‘Dr Bodie’s Renowned Electric Life Pills’. His adverts would have been popping up in your Instagram feed today.

In 1920 Houdini gifted Walford Bodie with a real electric chair, the one used for the first ever execution at Sing Sing prison. Charlie Chaplin impersonated him on stage and later in film.

Walford Bodie settled in Macduff with his extended family and children, living his best life in his specially-commissioned Manor House on Skene Street in 1905.

Jeannie, his only daughter, a talented vocalist and musician who assisted in his shows, died in 1909 at age 18. Walford commissioned a grey and pink granite memorial fountain in her honour which you can find today at the Maritime Garden on Crook O'Ness Street.

Walford Bodie died in Blackpool after collapsing on stage at Blackpool Pleasure Beach in 1939, aged 68. The entire family is buried in the cemetery at Macduff.

New hotel in Edinburgh

opening 23rd June

A new Hoxton hotel with 214 bedrooms has just opened in Edinburgh city centre. Located in a block of 11 adjoining Georgian townhouse on a peaceful street. It's a short walk from Haymarket station and tram stop making it super easy to access from the airport, rail and bus network.

Rooms have modern interiors mixed with original features and accessible rooms. Some great features include flexible check-in/out, free cancellations, black-out blinds, single rooms - each room has a cute Roberts radio. It even has its own mini cinema. It also comes with its own Italian restaurant, Patatino, with a local produce-led menu.

Coming soon: three self-contained three-bedroom houses with kitchen and living space.

It's an easy walking distance to the Paolozzi stained glass windows, National Gallery of Modern Art, Dean Village as well as being city centre. Loyalty members get 50% off.

The Kings Arms Hotel, Lockerbie

29 High Street, Lockerbie DG11 2JL

One of Scotland's oldest hotels, and likely to be the oldest building in Lockerbie, this early 17th Century coaching inn, retains its traditional exterior and some interior features including log fires and original beams in the public areas. It retains evidence of the wide passageway which would have led horse-drawn coaches to the old stable.

Each room has its own individual character and single rooms are available. You can get a fully cooked Scottish breakfast here, with veggie and GF options too. There is also a popular restaurant with seasonal menu using local produce and function room for private events and their Hogmanay ceilidh.

above images are from Lockerbie Past and Present Facebook page

Of course the inn has a history of many visitors over the centuries, including Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites in 1745, Rabbie Burns and Sir Walter Scott in 1813 and Bing Crosby - yes there’s golfing opportunities nearby. Could there be ghosties there too? There’s thought to be the ghost of a Jacobite soldier, Walter Scott and an anonymous lady in crinolene.

Lockerbie is easy to reach by train being equidistant between Edinburgh and Glasgow and a great first stop from England, with the hotel a five minute walk from the train station. Staying here would allow access to Lochmaben, Drumlanrig and Caerlaverock castles, Traquair House, Sweetheart Abbey, Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall and Rabbie Burns' residence in Dumfries.

new mural for Consulate of Ukraine

Windsor Street, Edinburgh

The Consulate of Ukraine in Edinburgh has just unveiled a new commissioned mural project for its public space in Windsor Street. The mural was created by Abandoned Artists, a collective social enterprise of displaced artists from the Ukraine. Everstill is a tribute to resilience and includes a poem by Ukrainian poet Vasyl Symonenko.

Abandoned Artists also has an exhibition planned for Custom House in September. Abandoned Artists mission is the belief that creativity can be a transformative force for individuals and communities.

In May, the team also unveiled a new mural at a pedestrian tunnel in Wishaw, North Lanarkshire - now renamed the Scottish - Ukrainian friendship tunnel.

Hope you enjoyed this. If so please like and share.

From Scotland with love x

stay in a broch

Harris, Outer Hebrides

There is a plentiful amount of Iron Age broch ruins dotted around Scotland. They are round, tall tower-like structures assembled using stone. Although the word broch means fort, it is believed these structures were ancient homes. Now there is a chance to stay in a modern day purpose-built broch at Borve Lodge Estate.

Situated on the estate,this one-bedroom self-catering gem sits next to the island of Taransay - Britain’s largest uninhabited island - and available for guests at the broch to visit. You might remember Taransay as the filming location of BBC TV Show Castaway 2000

search old placenames in Scotland

Are you researching your family tree or looking further into your Scottish ancestry? Take a deep dive into the online map archive and gazetteers at the National Library of Scotland which you can now search by placenames. Warning: you could get wonderfully lost for hours.

chase the Northern Lights

Liverpool, Faroe Isles, Shetland, Norway

16 - 25th October 2025

Aurora Borealis, Northern Lights, Mirrie Dancers, many people who come to Scotland believe the lights will come and find them, but in reality it’s you that has to chase the lights and be prepared for futility, human. You can go on a Chasing The Northern Lights cruise with aurora-watcher and photographer Wil, who has designed the cruise for optimal possibilities to catch the light show. This photographer has seen the lights over 300 times and has created an aurora-watch alert system. He knows what he’s doing. There is one Scottish stopover in Shetland (Lerwick). There will be photography workshops and astrophysicists on hand. This cruise is specifically timed to also catch the Orionids meteor shower.

chase Midsummer around Scotland

The ancient tradition of using fire, frolics and feasting to ritualise the celebration of the seasonal cycles also takes place around Midsummer. Fire typically symbolises a turning point in the year. At Midsummer, we mark nature’s wheel turning the long light days (eventually) back to shorter days and long, dark nights. Midsummer fire ritual in Scotland has its roots in Norse and Celtic culture festivals.

The fire ritual is thought to have blessed nature and specifically crops and livestock. Circling the fire in a sun-wise direction and also jumping the fire, encouraged crops to grow to the size of the highest jumper. This would have been a blend of ritual and celebration. Animal bones were thrown into the bonfire and birch branches hung over thresholds. Heather torches lit from the bonfire would also be paraded around the crops and livestock of each homestead. The bonfire would burn until only embers remain which would then be stamped out in the early hours of next day - the ashes considered lucky. Up all night to bring in the mid-year similar to a bringing in of the new year.

Such traditions were adopted, and “de-paganised” by the Christian calendar marking the symbolic birthday of St John the Baptist (also called St John’s Eve and Johnsmas) 23rd - 24th of June.

Walter Scott wrote a Borders ballad about St John's Eve in 1799, set in medieval Scotland. The ballad refers to the superstition that the apparitions of those who will die that year will be seen walking into the churchyard grounds at midnight.

In the lowlands, there is also a tradition that still exists in the Common Ridings, a sacred parade that walked the boundary paths of each community to ensure the physical and spiritual strength of each village. Some festivals and traditions still remain around this time of year, including climbing hills, lighting fires and night vigils at ancient sites and stone circles. Here’s a few suggestions for brining in the summer solstice:

Peebles Beltane Festival

Simmer Dim, Lerwick, Shetland

Moray Walking Festival

Jupiter Artland, Edinburgh

Solas Festival, Perthshire

Crawick Multiverse, Dumfries & Galloway

Historic Scotland ancient sites

St Magnus Festival, Orkney

Schiehallion Fairy Hill, Aberdeenshire - aka the entrance to the otherworld 😉

That’s all for this week,

from Scotland, with love.

16th Century Scotland ‘savages’

Thought to be a depiction of a young woman from the north of Scotland, this painting by Jacques Le Moyne, c.1585, features painted flowers that were not actually in existence in Europe at the time of the Picts. She has been variously named the Daughter of the Picts, the Tattooed Girl, the Celtic Warrior Woman, and the Tribal Goddess.

If authentic, this artwork is often used as an example to illustrate the idea that my ancestors, inhabitants of Northern Scotland in the early Middle Ages (3rd to 9th century), painted their bodies for battle. The Picts are thought to have lived in a matrilineal society with numerous kings and queens, a precursor to the later clan system.

The Picts left us the carved stones that we see scattered around the countryside today or preserved in museums. While I’m not sure if wandering around the hills unclothed is entirely possible, even for hardy Scots, we were nonetheless referred to as ‘savages’ by our fancier cousins across Europe. Historical records suggest that the Picts fought naked in full body paint up until the 5th century. The name ‘Picti,’ from the Latin meaning ‘painted,’ was possibly introduced by the Roman writer Eumenius in 297. The Picts may have referred to their ancestors as some form of "Pecht," meaning "the ancestors."

Some earlier depictions of the “savage” ordinary folk of Scotland from 1562:

This one translates:

“The savagery of Scotland.

If you look closely at this figure,

So that you may be certain of it,

It's the savagery in the land of Scotland,

I'm dressed against the cold.”

Hidden Door Festival 2025

The Paper Factory, Edinburgh

11th - 15th June

The Hidden Door arts festival opens its not-so-hidden doors next week. This year’s venue at The Paper Factory is the biggest ever, as this pop-up festival continues to bloom with each new location. The festival is known for inhabiting abandoned buildings in the city centre, tidying them up, and often inspiring future uses for these spaces. Hidden Door was largely responsible for sparking the revival of the abandoned Leith Theatre, and this year the festival will host the first ever Edinburgh International Mural Festival.

For those new to Hidden Door, there’s a useful beginner’s guide from Sarah McArthur for the Edinburgh Enquirer. The festival has been showcasing previews of some highlighted acts on YouTube as a taster.

Entry to Hidden Door is free during the day, with a line-up of performances that go into the wee hours. It’s easy to get to by public transport, with extra late-night services arranged for the festival, making it accessible for anyone who fancies immersing themselves in Edinburgh’s vibrant arts scene.

Lost Shore surf resort

Ratho, Edinburgh

I had the opportunity this week to visit Lost Shore surf resort for a look around. As Scotland's only surf resort, it is attracting both novice and world-class surfers as a practice and training ground that doesn't involve navigating the rugged coastline of Scotland. It's a surfing paradise for visitors as well as a training ground for local residents, with an added bonus of not having to dodge wild swimmers and families enjoying a day at the beach.

The resort offers waterfront pods and lodges. Located next to the village of Ratho, there are extra on-site offerings including bespoke massage services, a shop, and board rental. You're also connected by bus to the city's transport network.

You don't need to bring your own equipment – you'll be given a wetsuit and board, just bring a towel. There are café, bar, and restaurant facilities on site, making it great for dedicated surfers and those who've never surfed looking to come away with the basics.

The resort is built in an old quarry, using cleaned-up canal water and manufactured wave technology from Wave Garden to create the most bizarrely authentic waves I've ever experienced. Turn your back and just listen, and you really believe you're by the sea.

Mayflies in the nuclear bunker

Barnton Quarry Bunker, Edinburgh

until 19th June 2025

Today I killed two birds with one stone, as they say (yuck). Mayflies: Swarm is an installation artwork from Edinburgh-based artist Katarina Prior, which explores the fleeting existence of this tiny insect.

To visit the exhibition, you enter the bunker by appointment, following a set of instructions on how to get there. I’d never visited the Barnton Quarry Bunker before but have been curious about it for years. It’s not difficult (just a five-minute walk from the bus stop). Katarina leads you into the bunker, where she has created her installation of thousands of hand-cut paper mayflies along the walls of the entrance to the deeper section of the bunker. The space was originally designed to be a refuge for the Edinburgh elite at the beginning of the nuclear war threat.

You can choose to stop there or put on a hard hat and venture further into the bunker, which is still under long-term construction to become a museum. The exhibition is free but ticketed, and you’re invited to add to the collection of underground mayflies. Additionally, tours of the bunker are available every Saturday by appointment.

A few years ago, I attended bookmaking and print workshops led by the artist and had not made the connection until we met again today. Memory, it seems, can be just as fleeting as time and the mayfly.

Wuthering in The Meadows

Edinburgh

7th June

Every year I live out my childhood fantasy of being Kate Bush by taking part in the Most Wuthering Heights Day Ever event. Yesterday was the day - this year it had moved to become part of The Meadows Festival. Despite the weather of intermittent heavy downpours, us “Cathies” recreated the dance from Kate Bush’s Wuthering Heights video in aid of local charities. I thoroughly recommend prancing around the park en masse and dressed in red. It’s a full joy experience and I wouldn’t miss it for anything. It was a thoroughly damp experience this year but spirits were far from dampened. I’ll keep you posted for next year’s.

From Scotland, with love x

Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides

Even if you’re not a fan of Brutalist architecture, you might just soften your heart to the scaled-down version in the concrete bus shelters of Lewis. Installed as part of a youth employment scheme in 1979/80, they were designed to withstand some particularly brutalist weather conditions in the Outer Hebrides. You might welcome sheltering here whilst you wonder when the next bus will turn up. They’re also popular with sheep looking for refuge from the elements.

Previous bus shelter designs had been short-lived so council planners decided to go for a more robust shelter to counteract continuous replacement of flimsy metal/glass/plastic templates. There’s also now an ongoing youth project to renovate the wooden bus shelters of Lewis.

The photographer Alex Boyd has captured the simple beauty of the concrete shelters.

Keose is captured by John Maher, Buzzcocks drummer now living in Outer Hebrides

Photographer Ralph Hodgson has documented some of the shelters.

Lewis-based photographer Ralph Tongue is also a fan and offers landscape photography tours in Outer Hebrides.

If you want to stay near one of the shelters this renovated blackhouse and this accommodation with a reading corner is just a short walk away from the shelter at Cirbhig (Kirivick). For accommoation in Lewis, book early, especially for the peak summer months.

Some other bus shelter locations in Lewis:

South Dell

Nis

Linshader

Eoropie

For those who have been there, done that, they can get the t-shirt and shop local from LOOM Graphics shop

John Bellany: A Life in Self-Portraiture exhibition

City Art Centre, Edinburgh

31st May - 28th September 2025

Now open, a major exhibition of the late Scottish artist’s life and works. There will also be exclusive tours, talks and workshops. Whilst in Edinburgh, you can visit his grave at Dean Cemetery which is right next to the National Gallery of Modern Art.

John Bellany spent some of his later life living in Barga,Italy (also known as Little Scotland).

Donkeys rule, okay?

St Boswells, near Melrose

every Saturday afternoon

Whilst everyone who comes to Scotland seems to obsess over finding a hairy Highland coo, spare a thought for the humble donkey. If your heart doesn’t melt for a donkey, I don’t think we can be friends anymore. Find some time to visit the donkeys at the Scottish Donkey Sanctuary in the Scottish Borders. There’s over 100 donkeys, each with their own quirky character. Guided tours are also available. They’re just as lovable as our horned hairy heifers but at least five times less likely to take your eye out when you go in for the cuddle (yes tourists will actually try to do that). Open every Saturday 1-4pm get tickets here

Holy Cow, it’s a cafe with a secret garden

Edinburgh

I’m a wine loving, non-vegan and yet this is one of my favourite cafes to drop into day or night (no booking required). It even has a secret herb-garden patio that I love to show visitors to Edinburgh. This is a great pit stop to say an alcohol-free goodbye or hello to any guests arriving/leaving Edinburgh on the train or bus. The seasonal food choices are simple and delicious and there is a glass cabinet packed with homemade gluten-free cakes and tarts - all of which have tasted amazing.

This is also handy on Friday/Saturday evenings when everywhere around you is booked out. Tucked away on Elder Street behind the bus station, Holy Cow is my secret tip. And finding the secret patio on a sunny day is like a slice of gluten-free paradise. All day breakfasts, legendary burgers, dirty chips and lashings of ginger beer.

Last month to catch Scottish Colourists exhibition

Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh

until 29th June 2025

An extra day has been added to this fascinating exhibition, looking at the Scottish Colourists: Radical Perspectives in the context of their European contemporaries. Many of the paintings are from private collections. It’s well worth a visit which you can combine with a lunchtime tour or talk included.

SaxaVord Spaceport

Unst, Shetland

In 2023 SaxaVord became Europe’s first licensed orbital vertical launch site with a potential for six launch pads. Located at the Lamba Ness peninsula on the isle of Unst (pop.600), it is the most northerly point of the UK.

There are over 4500 satellites orbiting our planet right now. We use them every time we check the weather, switch on TV and radio, flight tracking etc. They also offer essential services to aviation and maritime agencies. Having a satellite launch spaceport in the less-populated far north allows for unrestricted, direct trajectories for scientific and environmental observation.

The project began in 2017. Plans are in place to aim for a carbon neutral spaceport with a peatland management plan to protect and boost the ecosystem. The carbon storage and coastal grassland habitats will be protected and ongoing wildlife surveys will support protection of local birds and otters. The SaxaZero initiative will ensure sustainability and environmental responsibility for preserving Unst’s unique eco-heritage.

It will also boost the Shetland economy and population whilst prioritising jobs for local residents of Unst and Shetland. Also in place is a ‘space camp’ education programme to encourage young people to consider STEM careers.

It’s situated right next to a Bronze Age burial site with early artworks discovered by archaeologists in 2023. There’s also evidence of six Viking longhouses from later eras. In more recent times, SaxaVord housed radar defence stations. When the RAF left in 2006, the base was turned into basic holiday accommodation (SaxaVord Resort). In 2014 Shetland Distillery Company started producing Shetland Reel gin at the resort.

The first test flight will take place this year with up to thirty satellite launches per year.

Little Sparta

Stonypath, Dunsyre

June - September (Thursday to Sunday only)

Little Sparta will re-open for the summer season. 2025 will be a special year marking the centenary of Ian Hamilton Finlay’s birth with a year of special events and exhibitions. The artist moved to Stonypath farm in 1966, in Midlothian’s Pentland Hills. There he created a huge poetical sculpture garden - now known as Little Sparta. Every year, the doors open to the public. This truly is a special day out for art lovers. For those without a car, Little Sparta advises:

There are no direct public transport links to Little Sparta. The nearest bus stop is in Dolphinton (for the 101/101A/102 Edinburgh – Dumfries service), some 4 miles from the garden. Our recommendation is to take the bus to Dolphinton Station and meet a pre-booked taxi there.

The Edinburgh Art Festival is, however, running a bus to Little Sparta every Sunday in August. Book your tickets here, they can sell out fast.

That’s all for this week.

From Scotland, with love.

St Andrews, Fife

Golf is not a sporting pursuit that sets me on fire, but I am a sucker for a vintage travel poster and 1920s/30s outfits. So, perhaps this might keep your pilot light on too. The Royal and Ancient World Golf Museum in St Andrews explores the past, present and future of golf, including plenty of artworks. The museum objects span over 400 years of the game and those who play it. Also, on 19th June there’s a museum talk on the history of golfing dress.

Bestest ever map of Fife!

And while we’re in Fife, check out this groovy interactive tube style map for North Fife. this makes me want to spend a month visiting all the stops. Proof, if it were needed, that there’s a lot more to Fife than its coastline.

full interactive map

Victoria Park toilet murals

Victoria Park, Glasgow

Funding was secured by Victoria Park Community Trust to commission Glasgow-based street mural artist FRODRIK. The portacabin toilets were upgraded but needed an aesthetic boost around the theme of birdlife on the pond.

See the artist’s latest works and follow on Instagram

Frigjøringskonvoien 2025 (The Liberation Convoy)

Edinburgh

25th - 30th May

Brought to my attention by The Edinburgh Minute. Having worked on ships, I enjoy a good nosy around a vintage vessel and thought you might feel the same. This convoy of six boats from Norway that served in WWII is on a tour of the UK east coast. These fully restored vessels have been transformed into floating museums and making a final stop in Edinburgh before moving south to Newcastle. The cargo ship D/S Hestmanden, aka “The Lucky Ship”, also survived WWI. It retains its original steam boiler, engine, and auxiliary equipment from 1911. Hestmanden will be docked at Ocean Terminal in Leith all this week. Un-ticketed and free entry to explore the vessel and get a guided tour.

Danger Came Smiling new exhibition

Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh

23rd May - 19th October 2025

This exhibition at Inverleith House Gallery spills outside into the Botanics. It explores five decades of photomontage and print work by pioneering artist Linder Sterling, involved in the punk scene in Manchester late 1970s. This is the first retrospective of Linder’s work in Scotland.

Look out for Botanics Late event on 20th June with an after-hours ticket for a night out at the exhibition with live music, food and drink.

Immersive photography weekend retreats

Marcassie Farm, Moray

14th - 15th June

Kim Grant Photography offers immersive, mindful photography retreats at Marcassie Farm in secluded, peaceful surroundings. You can rent one of the farm lodges on site or book your own accommodation nearby. There are three spaces left, waiting to be snapped up on the 14th - 15th June retreat. I’m so tempted right now to be one of those three.

Gaelic waulking songs workshop

Scottish Storytelling Centre, Edinburgh

7th June

The Scottish tradition of ‘waulking’ the urine-soaked tweed cloth to thicken and soften the texture came with its own style of songs to keep the work at a rhythmic pace. I’m sure this also made the hand-wrecking hard work bearable and sociable. Now you can time travel to the Scottish Storytelling Centre to learn some of the songs that grew from this ritual. Katie Macfarlane, a talented Gaelic singer from Airdrie, leads this one-time workshop - suitable also for non-Gaelic speakers. Get tickets here.

Stay in the hotel where Dracula was conceived

Cruden Bay

One of Scotland’s oldest hotels is Kilmarnock Arms Hotel situated on a coastal road in the North East of Scotland, between Aberdeen and Peterhead. Its neighbour is Slains Castle, believed to be the location for Dracula’s first appearance in the famous novel and the inspiration behind some of the descriptions of Dracula’s castle.

Bram Stoker stayed in this hotel several times whilst writing the Dracula story. You can view the guestbook with his signatures. He was inspired by the gothic treachery of this desolate granite-cliffed coastline with its dark, unforgiving North Sea waves. This coastline harbours a history of tales of shipwrecks and is a haven for sea life and birds, including puffins. Bram Stoker was known to would walk for hours there on his month-long holidays away from the city stour of London.

The author was a regular visitor to the North east and wrote two books featuring Cruden Bay: The Watter’s Mou’ and The Mystery of the Sea. He also wrote The Lair of the White Worm in 1910 at a nearby village. If you’re a fan of Bram Stoker, planning a trip there or just curious about his connection to Scotland, download a PDF of Bram Stoker themed walks in the area around The Kilmarnock Arms.

That’s all for this week, if you enjoyed this newsletter do click the like button to let me know.

From Scotland, with love.

National Galleries of Scotland, Edinburgh

20th May, in person and online, advance booking only

The 1920s saw a growing market for French Impressionist art, as the technique and subject matter appealed to modern aesthetics.

At the same time a parallel market for forgeries emerged, ending in two major scandals and subsequent trials in the 1930s around forgeries of Millet's and Van Gogh's work.

In the early 1920s the National Galleries of Scotland acquired two paintings, their first Impressionist works by Millet and Manet from the dealer and art critic David Croal Thomson. He had fallen victim to the fake paintings produced by Millet's grandson who had acquired the studio stamp of Millet and created over 200 fake works with an accomplice. He also sold forgeries of Manet and Corot. The grandson was brought to trial and UK and US art dealer expertise was ridiculed. In this free talk, Professor Frances Fowle reveals the truth behind the scandal and introduces her edited book The Art Market and the Museum.

Time Magazine and New York Times covered the story in the 1930s

Frances Fowle is Emeritus Professor of Nineteenth-Century Art at the University of Edinburgh and previously Senior Curator of French Art at the National Galleries of Scotland.

Enigmatic escape to Ring of Brightwater

Unusually, Tigh Beg Croft has availability for last-minute booking late May and early June. This secluded off-grid croft near Oban is a self-catering holiday cottage within a nostalgic setting. Sleeping up to four people, the whole croft is yours alone plus the fifty acres of land and coastline surrounding it. It’s situated at the sea entrance to Loch Feochan, with spectacular views down the 'Firth of Lorn'

The croft and this part of the coastline were used in the 1968 filming of Ring of Bright Water (1969) and in the final dramatic scenes of Enigma (2001), based on the Robert Harris thriller. So, you might find the descendant of Mij the otter, or his wee statue. Alternatively you might want to chase spies around the loch. Whatever suits you.

Check out the wee video below on their Instagram:

Behind the scenes at Scottish Opera

tour Glasgow, Inverness, Edinburgh and Aberdeen

until 14th June

I love this sneaky peek behind the scenes of The Merry Widow set production, currently touring around Scotland.

Already been to Glasgow but about to go to Eden Court Inverness and Festival Theatre, Edinburgh and finishing off in Aberdeen before a run in London. Find out more and book tickets here

Garden Futures at V&A Dundee

V&A Dundee

from 17th May

This long-anticipated exhibition highlights the connection between gardens and the world of art and design. Featuring Piet Oudolf, William Morris and Derek Jarman. A history of garden design that looks to the future of how garden design might evolve. Book your ticket here

Dumfries & Galloway Arts Festival

Crawick Multiverse

25th May

As part of the Dumfries & Galloway Arts Festival, enjoy a day of circus cabaret from home-grown Cirqulation at Crawick Multiverse land art installation park.

Highland Threads, a virtual exhibition

online

Fourteen museums across the Highlands showcase one of their most beloved items in this interactive online museum. Highland Threads was first launched in the midst of Covid lockdown and can still be accessed indefinitely. You can also read a fascinating wee history of each item. Enjoy some sensorial up close details that you could almost touch 🥴

Anne Estelle Rice and the Scottish Colourists talk

Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh

31st May

This will be a fascinating talk. How much do we know of this American artist who features in Dovecot’s latest exhibition on the Scottish Colourists - showing until 28th June and well worth seeing. Her relationship with Scottish Colourist JD Fergusson aside, Susan' Moore’s research will bring attention to an artist overlooked by art history. The talk includes a ticket to the exhibition.

From Scotland, with love.

Edinburgh

2nd Sunday of each month

Open days for Phoebe Traquair’s Mansfield Church murals are on the second Sunday of each month. If you missed today’s there are some options in June, July and at the Fringe and later in the year at Doors Open Day. No need to book, just show up. The volunteers will give you a tour of the murals and answer any questions. You can also book a private tour of the church or hire it as a venue. I can still remember nights out here when it was a bar venue long before the murals were cleaned up and cherished.

Jupiter Artland

Edinburgh

from 10th May

Two new Jonathan Baldock exhibitions have opened at the sculpture park in Edinburgh

WYRD (until 28 September)- a textile and clay installation and Warm Inside (until 27 July ) - 12 hanging sculptures

Happy Birthday Victoria Crowe

Edinburgh

from 24th July

One of my favourite artists Victoria Crowe celebrated her 80th Birthday on VE Day. Edinburgh will also celebrate her birthday this summer at The Scottish Gallery and Dovecot Studios.

Shifting Surfaces opens at Dovecot Studios 28 July - 11 October. Decades will open at The Scottish Gallery 31 July - 30 August including a major new body of work

Special event - book now:

Victoria Crowe in conversation, an evening celebrating the artist at Dovecot Studios on 24th July will include an early preview of Shifting Surfaces. Book now before it sells out here.

Return of the Stirling Sightseer bus

The hop-on hop-off bus has returned for another summer, linking up some of Stirling’s best loved attractions. There’s plenty of pit stops for the creative and curious traveller:

Bridge of Allan, a former spa-resort visited by Robert Louis Stevenson and Charles Dickens

University of Stirling art collection

National Wallace Monument for panoramic views and Wallace’s sword

Stirling Old Bridge: medieval arched masonry bridge

Mote Hill, where sits an ancient beheading stone

Stirling Smith Art Gallery and Museum

Stirling Castle: lots to see here, including the unicorn tapestries

Find out more here

Hidden Door at The Paper Factory

Edinburgh

11-15 June

Every year the volunteer-led Hidden Door Festival takes on an abandoned or dilapidated building, turning it into an arts festival showcasing emerging artists. This year the festival takes place on a 15.5 acre site of a former paper and card manufacturing facility. Get your tickets now. If you apply to volunteer, you can get free tickets.

New Fair Isle Bird Observatory Hotel open for bookings

Fair Isle, Shetland

12th May

Bookings are open for the new Fair Isle Bird Observatory hotel on 12th May, six years after a fire destroyed the old observatory.

Sir Walter Scott Steamship is 125 years old

Loch Katrine, Trossachs

7-8 June

June 7-8th is the 125th anniversary weekend of Sir Walter Scott Steamship at Loch Katrine. The vintage vessel was named after Scottish author Sir Walter Scott. His poem The Lady of the Lake (1810) was inspired by Loch Katrine from the viewpoint at Roderick Dhu. This viewpoint was once home to two wicker huts built in the late 1780s for artists and writers to stay and take inspiration from the landscape, including Keats and Wordsworth. The viewpoint watch tower has quotes from Scott’s poem and the original pathway has been reinstated with a hand-finished stone and a board walk.

The historic steamship is one of the last surviving screw-propelled steamships in regular service. It is now wheelchair accessible. Plus you can stay overnight lochside in an eco-pod lodge

Heavenly Sound: Music in Early Modern Paintings

St Cecelia’s Hall, Edinburgh

29th May

Edinburgh’s musical instrument museum is the venue for an informal lecture on the representation of music in early modern European paintings, delivered by Lesley Fraser an art historian at University of Edinburgh.

That’s all for this week.

from Scotland, with love.

Enter this week’s rabbit hole of Scotland’s curiosities…

Harley Davidson Legacy Cottage opens

near Aberlemno, Brechin

open weekends from 12th April

Get your motor running, head out on the highway. For biker enthusiasts, this is the cottage Davidson’s dad grew up in. The family emigrated to USA in 1857. The Davidson Legacy Cottage is a museum with interiors recreating life in a mid-19th Century Scottish home and a visitor centre with 21st century facilities. Taking their family of six children, including William Davidson - father of the Davidson brothers who founded Harley Davidson Motor Company in 1903. The derelict cottage was rescued in 2008 but was more recently under threat of demolition after being put up for sale. Now it is re-opened and re-imagined through crowd-funding and support from Harley Davidson. Also in the pipeline, community workshops for local youths inspired by the Harley Davidson story.

Macbeth: An Exhibition

Perth Museum

until 31st August

Perth Museum opens its summer long exhibition, the story of Macbeth in Perthshire. From Birnam Wood to Dunsinane Hill as told through objects relating to literature, film and theatre. The story is told alongside the real story of King Macbeth. An exciting blend of history and fantasy. Can’t wait to see it for myself (soon!).

Dream dinner under the stars

The Azalea by Glenapp Castle

Ballantrae, Ayrshire

opens 1st May

Within the walled gardens of Glenapp, is one of the last remaining traditional iron glasshouses designed by Moncur & McKenzie. The seasonal menu includes produce from the kitchen garden. Open for dinner or afternoon tea: Wed - Sat or Sunday lunch. Private dining also available. Here’s their dream-like video. Dream away…

Signspotting at The Orchard bar

I noticed an original feature at this pub, formerly The Northern bar, one of Edinburgh’s original Victorian pubs. This original stained glass door was part of a re-design in 1903 by local architect Robert Macfarlane Cameron. He re-designed several pub interiors for some of Edinburgh’s well-loved traditional pubs including Ryrie’s, Guildford Arms and Bennett’s.

The words ‘bottle and jug department’ sent me down a rabbit hole of pub trade history. These were the original off-licences, a separate room in the bar where you brought your jug to be filled with whatever took your fancy - this was typically the woman’s task. They were often called the ‘family department’, a takeaway section of the pub, if you like. The wee hand-painted scene is of the Brig O’Turk in The Trossachs. The bar top at The Orchard bar is also the original. Also see some great art exhibitions in the side room.

The World of King James VI and I

Scottish National Portrait Gallery, Edinburgh

until 14th September

This new exhibition marks the 400th anniversary of his death. Although an influential figure in many ways, he was overshadowed by his mum Mary Queen of Scots and his son Charles I. I knew him mostly for his reworking of the bible, the gunpowder plot and his witchcraft obsession. We find out more in this exhibition. Interesting for lovers of history and 16-17th Century portraiture. It also offers a concise contextual summary of the turbulent Scottish regal history of this time.

The Govan Stones, Viking age treasures

Govan Old Parish Church, Glasgow

open daily until 31st October

A unique collection of early medieval carved stones that lay in the old churchyard for centuries - now housed inside the church. Free to visit and guided tours available.

explore the stones in 3D

See you next week for another carousel newsletter.

From Scotland, with love.