Hidden doors, lost shores and mayflies in the nuclear bunker
a travel newsletter from Scotland for the creative and curious
16th Century Scotland ‘savages’
Thought to be a depiction of a young woman from the north of Scotland, this painting by Jacques Le Moyne, c.1585, features painted flowers that were not actually in existence in Europe at the time of the Picts. She has been variously named the Daughter of the Picts, the Tattooed Girl, the Celtic Warrior Woman, and the Tribal Goddess.
If authentic, this artwork is often used as an example to illustrate the idea that my ancestors, inhabitants of Northern Scotland in the early Middle Ages (3rd to 9th century), painted their bodies for battle. The Picts are thought to have lived in a matrilineal society with numerous kings and queens, a precursor to the later clan system.
The Picts left us the carved stones that we see scattered around the countryside today or preserved in museums. While I’m not sure if wandering around the hills unclothed is entirely possible, even for hardy Scots, we were nonetheless referred to as ‘savages’ by our fancier cousins across Europe. Historical records suggest that the Picts fought naked in full body paint up until the 5th century. The name ‘Picti,’ from the Latin meaning ‘painted,’ was possibly introduced by the Roman writer Eumenius in 297. The Picts may have referred to their ancestors as some form of "Pecht," meaning "the ancestors."
Some earlier depictions of the “savage” ordinary folk of Scotland from 1562:
This one translates:
“The savagery of Scotland.
If you look closely at this figure,
So that you may be certain of it,
It's the savagery in the land of Scotland,
I'm dressed against the cold.”
Hidden Door Festival 2025
The Paper Factory, Edinburgh
11th - 15th June
The Hidden Door arts festival opens its not-so-hidden doors next week. This year’s venue at The Paper Factory is the biggest ever, as this pop-up festival continues to bloom with each new location. The festival is known for inhabiting abandoned buildings in the city centre, tidying them up, and often inspiring future uses for these spaces. Hidden Door was largely responsible for sparking the revival of the abandoned Leith Theatre, and this year the festival will host the first ever Edinburgh International Mural Festival.
For those new to Hidden Door, there’s a useful beginner’s guide from Sarah McArthur for the Edinburgh Enquirer. The festival has been showcasing previews of some highlighted acts on YouTube as a taster.
Entry to Hidden Door is free during the day, with a line-up of performances that go into the wee hours. It’s easy to get to by public transport, with extra late-night services arranged for the festival, making it accessible for anyone who fancies immersing themselves in Edinburgh’s vibrant arts scene.
Lost Shore surf resort
Ratho, Edinburgh
I had the opportunity this week to visit Lost Shore surf resort for a look around. As Scotland's only surf resort, it is attracting both novice and world-class surfers as a practice and training ground that doesn't involve navigating the rugged coastline of Scotland. It's a surfing paradise for visitors as well as a training ground for local residents, with an added bonus of not having to dodge wild swimmers and families enjoying a day at the beach.
The resort offers waterfront pods and lodges. Located next to the village of Ratho, there are extra on-site offerings including bespoke massage services, a shop, and board rental. You're also connected by bus to the city's transport network.
You don't need to bring your own equipment – you'll be given a wetsuit and board, just bring a towel. There are café, bar, and restaurant facilities on site, making it great for dedicated surfers and those who've never surfed looking to come away with the basics.
The resort is built in an old quarry, using cleaned-up canal water and manufactured wave technology from Wave Garden to create the most bizarrely authentic waves I've ever experienced. Turn your back and just listen, and you really believe you're by the sea.
Mayflies in the nuclear bunker
Barnton Quarry Bunker, Edinburgh
until 19th June 2025
Today I killed two birds with one stone, as they say (yuck). Mayflies: Swarm is an installation artwork from Edinburgh-based artist Katarina Prior, which explores the fleeting existence of this tiny insect.
To visit the exhibition, you enter the bunker by appointment, following a set of instructions on how to get there. I’d never visited the Barnton Quarry Bunker before but have been curious about it for years. It’s not difficult (just a five-minute walk from the bus stop). Katarina leads you into the bunker, where she has created her installation of thousands of hand-cut paper mayflies along the walls of the entrance to the deeper section of the bunker. The space was originally designed to be a refuge for the Edinburgh elite at the beginning of the nuclear war threat.
You can choose to stop there or put on a hard hat and venture further into the bunker, which is still under long-term construction to become a museum. The exhibition is free but ticketed, and you’re invited to add to the collection of underground mayflies. Additionally, tours of the bunker are available every Saturday by appointment.
A few years ago, I attended bookmaking and print workshops led by the artist and had not made the connection until we met again today. Memory, it seems, can be just as fleeting as time and the mayfly.
Wuthering in The Meadows
Edinburgh
7th June
Every year I live out my childhood fantasy of being Kate Bush by taking part in the Most Wuthering Heights Day Ever event. Yesterday was the day - this year it had moved to become part of The Meadows Festival. Despite the weather of intermittent heavy downpours, us “Cathies” recreated the dance from Kate Bush’s Wuthering Heights video in aid of local charities. I thoroughly recommend prancing around the park en masse and dressed in red. It’s a full joy experience and I wouldn’t miss it for anything. It was a thoroughly damp experience this year but spirits were far from dampened. I’ll keep you posted for next year’s.
From Scotland, with love x